The bluffer's guide to bespoke suits
Are you a bespoke suit rookie? We tell you how to talk the talk.
In the end, what separates the men from the boys, is suiting up bespoke, instead of off the rack. But in case 40 S sounds like a soon-to-be-released iPhone to you, and Angelina Jolie's leg-baring red carpet posing is the most familiar you are with slits – congratulations, you're a bespoke suits rookie. To sound more veteran, less virgin, here's how to talk the talk through your first time with a fancy bespoke tailor.
The L-Word: Being down with the lingo is key in order to trick your tailor into believing you've already been there, or done that. Use lingo such as “sleeve head”, when describing the upper part of your jacket's sleeves, and when you start talking lapels – not, “collars” - that will also make for the right kind of first impression. While you're at it, make sure you're specific regarding the type of lapel you want – choosing between a notch lapel, peak lapel, diamond lapel, or shawl lapel for your jacket.
Know your wools: A wool bespoke suit remains an all-time classic, and particularly during the fall/winter season, it is the must-have bespoke attire. When it comes to the wool of a tailored suit, it's all about the S numbers which indicate the fineness and quality of a wool, making 80s less fine than 100s for example. The most popular types of fine wool are 160s, 180s and 200s. And when it comes to the type of wool the ultimate taste-makers choose for their bespoke wear, lama wool, or the extremely rare (read: extremely pricey) vicuna wool is what gets them going.
Slit-ettiquette: The slit – or vents as they are officially called – should never be requested if you're planning on wearing your bespoke suit as evening wear. Nonetheless, they can can keep your suit in better shape at the the office, when sitting down or putting your hands into your pockets for example. Whether you go for a single vent or a double vent in the back, is completely up to you.
The perfect fit: Ask for an unstructured suit – that is, loosely tailored without padding - if you're looking for that second-skin experience. For something slightly more trendy, go slim-fit. As far as the trousers are concerned, be clear about whether you want them regular leg, narrow leg, or wide leg.
An eye for detail: Make sure your tailor makes the sleeves of your jacket slightly shorter so at least 1cm of your shirt can come out, and ask for handmade buttonholes to sound like the pro you aren't. Speaking of buttons, go for either a two-button or three-button model for the jacket. Otherwise, ask for a double-breasted jacket, or doppio petto as the Italians call them. Finally, specify whether you like your pants cuffed or not, your shoulders with or without padding, and your seams visible or invisible.
- SA won by 52 runsvs. SABAN1st T20ISun, Jul 05, 2015Mirpur, BangladeshSouth Africa in Bangladesh...
- NEP won by 3 wkts.vs. NEPNED4th T20IFri, Jul 03, 2015Rotterdam, NetherlandsNepal in Netherlands T20 S...
- NED won by 18 runsvs. NEPNED3rd T20IThu, Jul 02, 2015Rotterdam, NetherlandsNepal in Netherlands T20 S...
- live match SL 228/5 (69.4 Overs)vs. PAKSL3rd TestLIVEPAK 215/10; SL 278/10;Kandy, Sri LankaPakistan in Sri Lanka Test...
- Upcoming matchvs. SABAN2nd T20ITue, Jul 07, 2015Mirpur, BangladeshSouth Africa in Bangladesh...
- vs. AUSENG1st TestWed, Jul 08, 2015Wed, Jul 08, 2015Cardiff, EnglandThe Ashes, 2015...
- vs. UAESCOMatch 1Thu, Jul 09, 2015Thu, Jul 09, 2015Raeburn Place, Edinburgh, ScotlandWorld Twenty20 Qualifier, ...
Latest Photo Albums
Action images from the Khan shaheb Oshman Ali Stadium, June 10-14, 2015. [Scoreboard] More » Bangladesh vs India, One-off Test in Fatullah
Mumbai Indians completed one of the most remarkable turnarounds in the eight-year history of the Indian Premier league by transforming a terrible start to the tournament - they were at the bottom of the table for the first two weeks - into a title win.
More » Action photos: The Mumbai-Chennai IPL final
Royal Challengers Bangalore set up a clash with Chennai Super Kings for a place in the final as they sent Rajasthan Royals out of the tournament. More » IPL8: Rajasthan Royals vs Royal Challengers Bangalore
A timely half-century by opener Lendl Simmons and some quality bowling helped Mumbai Indians secure a place in the Indian Premier League (IPL) 2015 final with a 25-run victory over Chennai Super Kings (CSK) in … More » IPL8: Mumbai Indians vs Chennai Super Kings
JP Duminy, the Delhi Daredevils captain, elected to bat at the Wankhede Stadium against Mumbai Indians. Duminy felt the wicket wasn't going to change much, and said it might offer "a little bit of turn" in the latter half. His counterpart, Rohit Sharma, sounded pleased with his team's recent run, … More » IPL 8: Mumbai versus Delhi, the highlights in photos
MUMBAI: Ajinkya Rahane and Karun Nair displayed superb batting skills to help Rajasthan Royals post a challenging 189/2 against Delhi Daredevils in an Indian Premer League (IPL) match at the Brabourne Stadium here on Sunday.
More » IPL8: Rajasthan Royals beat Delhi Daredevils by 14 runs
Opening batsmen Lendl Simmons (71 in 56 balls) and Parthiv Patel (59 in 36 balls) helped Mumbai Indians (MI) register their … More » IPL8: Mumbai Indians thrash Kings XI Punjab by 23 runs
If you thought that the cheerleaders earn a lot during the Indian Premier League games, think again. While the pay may vary from team to team, with franchises like Royal Challengers Bangalore, Mumbai Indians and Kolkata Knight Riders paying a bit more than the others, reports say that at an … More » IPL8: Cheerleaders and what they earn in a season
Mandeep Singh worked the magic for Royal Challengers Bangalore who defeated champions Kolkata Knight Riders by seven wickets with two balls to spare. More » IPL 8: Royal Challengers Bangalore beat Kolkata Knight Riders
Mumbai Indians won Match 32 by 8 runs against Rajasthan Royals. More » IPL 8: Mumbai Indians beat Rajasthan Royals
Delhi Daredevils beat Kings XI Punjab by 9 wickets. More » IPL 8: Delhi Daredevils beat Kings XI Punjab
Chennai Super Kings beat Kolkata Knight Riders by 2 runs. More » IPL8: Kolkata Knight Riders vs Chennai Super Kings
Sunrisers Hyderabad (150 for 6) beat Kings XI Punjab 130 for 9 by 20 runs. More » IPL8: Sunrisers Hyderabad vs Kings XI Punjab
Undeterred by looming clouds and the threat of rain, thousands of frenzied fans watch the IPL every year, even as heavy security, frisking at the entrance twice and restriction on carrying bags, umbrellas and other objects into the stands makes it troublesome. Take a look! More » IPL 8: The fans cheer on