The bluffer's guide to bespoke suits
Are you a bespoke suit rookie? We tell you how to talk the talk.
In the end, what separates the men from the boys, is suiting up bespoke, instead of off the rack. But in case 40 S sounds like a soon-to-be-released iPhone to you, and Angelina Jolie's leg-baring red carpet posing is the most familiar you are with slits – congratulations, you're a bespoke suits rookie. To sound more veteran, less virgin, here's how to talk the talk through your first time with a fancy bespoke tailor.
The L-Word: Being down with the lingo is key in order to trick your tailor into believing you've already been there, or done that. Use lingo such as “sleeve head”, when describing the upper part of your jacket's sleeves, and when you start talking lapels – not, “collars” - that will also make for the right kind of first impression. While you're at it, make sure you're specific regarding the type of lapel you want – choosing between a notch lapel, peak lapel, diamond lapel, or shawl lapel for your jacket.
Know your wools: A wool bespoke suit remains an all-time classic, and particularly during the fall/winter season, it is the must-have bespoke attire. When it comes to the wool of a tailored suit, it's all about the S numbers which indicate the fineness and quality of a wool, making 80s less fine than 100s for example. The most popular types of fine wool are 160s, 180s and 200s. And when it comes to the type of wool the ultimate taste-makers choose for their bespoke wear, lama wool, or the extremely rare (read: extremely pricey) vicuna wool is what gets them going.
Slit-ettiquette: The slit – or vents as they are officially called – should never be requested if you're planning on wearing your bespoke suit as evening wear. Nonetheless, they can can keep your suit in better shape at the the office, when sitting down or putting your hands into your pockets for example. Whether you go for a single vent or a double vent in the back, is completely up to you.
The perfect fit: Ask for an unstructured suit – that is, loosely tailored without padding - if you're looking for that second-skin experience. For something slightly more trendy, go slim-fit. As far as the trousers are concerned, be clear about whether you want them regular leg, narrow leg, or wide leg.
An eye for detail: Make sure your tailor makes the sleeves of your jacket slightly shorter so at least 1cm of your shirt can come out, and ask for handmade buttonholes to sound like the pro you aren't. Speaking of buttons, go for either a two-button or three-button model for the jacket. Otherwise, ask for a double-breasted jacket, or doppio petto as the Italians call them. Finally, specify whether you like your pants cuffed or not, your shoulders with or without padding, and your seams visible or invisible.
- vs. NZAUS3rd ODIFri, Dec 09, 2016Melbourne, AustraliaChappell-Hadlee Trophy, 20...
- AUS won by 116 runsvs. NZAUS2nd ODITue, Dec 06, 2016Canberra, AustraliaChappell-Hadlee Trophy, 20...
- AUS won by 68 runsvs. NZAUS1st ODISun, Dec 04, 2016Sydney, AustraliaChappell-Hadlee Trophy, 20...
- live match IND 362/6 (116.4 Overs)vs. ENGIND4th TestLIVEENG 400/10;Mumbai, IndiaEngland in India Test Seri...
- vs. PAKAUS1st TestThu, Dec 15, 2016Thu, Dec 15, 2016Brisbane, AustraliaPakistan in Australia Test...
- vs. ENGIND5th TestFri, Dec 16, 2016Fri, Dec 16, 2016Chennai, IndiaEngland in India Test Seri...
- vs. BANNZ1st ODISun, Dec 25, 2016Sun, Dec 25, 2016Christchurch, New ZealandBangladesh in New Zealand ...
Latest Photo Albums
One can compare Virat Kohli with Sachin Tendulkar in the late nineties. Like Tendulkar, Kohli carries the entire burden of a billion Indian fans when he comes in to bat. And, whenever Kohli scores a century, India wins hands down. In chases, Kohli scores a ton every 6.3 innings.
More » In pictures: Kohli's best match-winning ODI knocks
As VVS Laxman turns a year older on November 1, we take a look at his performances when the chips were down. Here's the best of the Hyderabadi who was indeed very, very special. [Farewell, VVS: Full Coverage] More » 14 VVS Performances From Laxman
Irfan Khan Pathan, born on 27 October 1984 in Baroda, was fast-tracked into the India team and was a core member of the national team until a decline in form set in during 2006, forcing him out of the team. Since then, he has been in and out of the limited-overs team because of injuries and loss of form, … More » Happy Birthday: Irfan Pathan
He is on the wrong side of the thirties, struggling to save his career but make no mistake the name Virender Sehwag’s can still instill the fear of god in bowlers all across the globe. Desperate times call for desperate measures and Viru - who would take the game away from … More » The Nawab of Najafgarh turns 38
A look at the top 10 ODI captains in cricketing history in terms of number of matches won.
Note -- Steve Waugh misses the cut because, although he has a high winning percentage, he has only 67 wins.More » 10 most successful ODI captains of all time
Images from the practice sessions of India and New Zealand ahead of the second ODI in New Delhi. More » India & New Zealand practice at Kotla
India's veteran leg-spinner Anil Kumble, who is the coach of the Indian cricket team, celebrates his birthday on October 17.More » 10 things you probably didn't know about Anil Kumble
Here are 10 important facts you should know about him.