How To: Tonal Make-Up

Estée Lauder

Backstage at the Paris shows, Estée Lauder’s make-up master Tom Pecheux received the "metal" cue for designer Anthony Vaccarello's autumn/winter 2013 show of “unfitted” leather edged up with lots of hardware.

“I was inspired by the Parisian woman who is very feminine, yet daring, adding a touch of masculinity and a hint of metallic to her look,” Pecheux said.

“For nails, I wanted to evoke this femme fatale with wine red and silver, reflecting the edgy metallics in Anthony’s collection.”

A tonal look uses varying tints of one colour on different features. Pecheux created the Vaccarello look using the intense berry hue of the Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture as the starting point, blending it to a very soft shade over the eyes, keeping it matte and dark on the lips and complimenting it with a metallic shade on the fingertips. 

BREAKING IT DOWN

Eyes: First Pecheux covers the lids with a long wear foundation. Then he mixes two shadows, berry and taupe and a dark plum hued lip colour to create a gentle, berry smoky eye.

Pecheux used: Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup,Pure Color Vannilla Pods, Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture

Lips: To ensure a long stay and prevent bleeding, line the lips first with a matte dark lip liner. Then use a lip brush to paint the lips with a deep wine-shaded pigment, and overlay it with a satiny red lipstick for a metallic luster. To get that dry shine, you need a final dusting of a translucent loose powder.

Pecheux used: Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine, Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture, Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava, Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent

Face: For the bold lips to stand out, the face was kept minimal but matte and polished. Follow all the steps for a properly prepped base with a good primer, a foundation that matches your skin colour, concealer wherever necessary and a loose powder to set it.
 
Pecheux used: Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup, Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent, Double Wear Stay-in-Place Concealer and Illuminating Perfecting Primer

Nails: The nails were created by Christina Conrad. The manicure is fairly simple to recreate. The base is a silvery-grey metallic. Paint a darker oxblood shade over it, leaving a little semi-circle bit of the silver peeking out near the cuticle.

Conrad used: Pure Color Nail Lacquer shades in Bittersweet, Fallen Angel and Smoked Chrome

-Jerusha Ratnam Chande

 

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