Melahap Kepiting di Bawah Karang

Tak selamanya tersasar itu buruk. Terkadang, tersesat ke sebuah tempat justru menghadirkan kepada kita sesuatu yang lebih indah. Saya sudah membuktikannya ketika tersasar ke Pantai Sadeng di Girisubo, Gunungkidul. Sebenarnya saya bertujuan ke pantai lain tetapi salah membelok. Tetapi di Pantai Sadeng saya menemukan surga hidangan kuliner laut.

Pantai Sadeng ini berada di ujung timur deretan pantai di Gunungkidul Yogyakarta. Jaraknya pun lebih jauh dari pantai-pantai lainnya, mungkin sekitar 75-80 km dari pusat kota Yogyakarta. Jalan menuju ke pantai ini sepi, naik turun, melewati jurang-jurang. Walau melelahkan, saya cukup menikmati karena pemandangannya pun indah.
Perahu-perahu nelayan yang bersandar.
Tiba di gerbang Pantai Sadeng, yang pertama terlihat adalah tempat pelelangan ikan. Memang, pantai ini adalah pantai nelayan, bukan pantai wisata. Sayangnya, saat itu nelayan belum banyak yang kembali dari laut. Hanya terlihat beberapa pedagang yang menggelar ikan-ikan besar, entah apa namanya.

Awalnya saya agak bingung, apakah pantai ini begini saja, hanya tempat penjualan ikan beserta perahu-perahu nelayannya? Tak ada pasir pantai untuk bermain atau warung-warung makan. Padahal setelah menempuh perjalanan jauh perut sudah keroncongan.
Tumpukan kepiting yang dijajakan di warung-warung Pantai Sadeng.
Ternyata di sisi kiri terdapat sebuah jalan kecil yang dapat dilalui mobil menuju ke tebing karang di ujung pantai Sadeng. Di sana terdapat sepetak pasir pantai untuk bermain. Menurut saya, salah satu hal yang paling menarik di pantai ini adalah batu-batu penahan ombak yang dibangun untuk melindungi perahu-perahu nelayan.

Rasa lapar sudah tidak dapat ditahan lagi, akhirnya saya menuju ke warung-warung yang berada di pinggir tebing kapur. Tumpukan kepiting (yang sebenarnya lebih tepat disebut rajungan, karena totol-totol) dan lobster tampak sangat menggiurkan.
Lesehan di bawah karang.
Suami saya langsung mewanti-wanti, “Tanya dulu harganya, sekalian harga nasi dan lalapannya!”

Sesuai pengalaman kami di beberapa pantai lain, kadang harga ikan atau kepitingnya mahal. Ada juga yang murah, namun harga nasi, lalapan, dan sambal justru mahal sekali.

Si ibu pemilik warung mengatakan bahwa harga satu ekor kepiting yang besar Rp30 ribu. Nasinya Rp2500 per porsi, lalapan Rp2000 sepiring dan sambal gratis! Sontak kami memilih kepiting yang paling besar, beratnya sudah pesti lebih dari 1 kg. Kalau di Jakarta harganya jauh lebih mahal, pikir saya.
Tanggul penahan ombak dan mercusuar Pantai Sadeng.
Kami mencari tempat duduk di tikar-tikar yang digelar di bawah karang kapur. Warung-warung tersebut membuat semacam lesehan di belakang warung mereka. Para penjual tersebut tidak perlu memasang tenda karena formasi karang secara alami mampu berfungsi sebagai peneduh. Justru karena tempat berteduh alami ini, hawa menjadi jauh lebih sejuk dan kami juga terlindung dari terpaan angin pantai.

Sambil menunggu, kami menyantap tempe mendoan panas yang disediakan ibu pemilik warung. Ibu ini dan suaminya sibuk mengolah kepiting yang kami pilih. Ia juga menyediakan oseng sayuran dan ikan tuna goreng untuk beberapa pelanggan yang lain.

Tidak berapa lama akhirnya datang kepiting kami, ditemani nasi panas, satu cobek sambal dan irisan ketimun. Suami saya tidak sabar langsung mencicipi daging kepiting, “Enak banget!” Kepiting tersebut masih sangat segar sehingga dagingnya pun sangat gurih.

Kepiting ini juga dimasak dengan bumbu yang sangat sederhana sehingga justru rasa alami kepitingnya tidak tertutup bumbu-bumbu. Ini sangat pas dipadukan dengan sambal yang rasanya “nendang” meski bahannya hanya cabai rawit, garam, dan terasi. Kami melahap kepiting, sampai menambah nasi dua kali. Sudah lama rasanya saya tidak makan sebanyak itu.

Ternyata semuanya hanya habis Rp49.500 sudah dengan es teh manis, satu kelapa bulat, dan enam potong tempe mendoan. Sungguh hasil tersesat yang sangat nikmat. Sebenarnya saya masih ngiler melihat tumpukan lobster, tapi apa daya perut sudah tidak sanggup menampung lagi.

Si ibu pemilik warung meminta kami untuk datang lagi suatu saat nanti. “Pasti, Bu!” kata kami.

Kunjungi juga blog perjalanan Olenka di www.backpackology.me

Simak juga galeri keindahan Pulau Lengkuas, Bangka Belitung, di bawah ini.

Baca juga:

[GALERI] Komodo di Pulau Rinca
[GALERI] Berburu senja keliling Indonesia
[GALERI] Kalau tak tahu malu, silakan berenang di sini
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